Isaan, Thailand’s northeast

Isaan is rural and has its own language, music and food. Each province is a little different. Along the Mekong, people have shared language, family and trade with Laos for longer than there has been a border.

20 provinces 22 million people, about a third of Thailand อีสาน
A plate of green papaya salad beside a bowl of sticky rice and grilled chicken
Som tam, khao niao, kai yang

Isaan food อาหารอีสาน

Sour, fiery and fermented: som tam, larb and sticky rice, eaten with your hands. Poor soil and long dry seasons taught cooks to preserve everything.

Every province cooks it differently. Ubon is known for fermented fish, Khon Kaen for river greens.

Mor lam หมอลำ

Mor lam is storytelling sung to the khaen. Singers perform in local dialect and draw on old stories and village memory.

Bun Bang Fai บุญบั้งไฟ

At the rocket festival, villages fire rockets at the sky to ask for rain before planting. It mixes Buddhist merit-making with older animist ritual, and each province does it a little differently.

Held in May and June. Yasothon hosts the biggest.

Men hauling a long bamboo rocket up a tall wooden launch tower under a grey sky
Loading a rocket, Yasothon
Open rice paddies with scattered tall trees under a pale sky
Kaset Wisai, Roi Et

Village cooperatives

Villages run rice banks, share irrigation and farm collectively. The tradition is called ngan luam, working together.

The Mekong borderlands

People on both banks of the Mekong share language, family ties and old trade routes. That shared identity is older than the border.

An orange sun setting over the Mekong with a bridge in silhouette
The Mekong at Nong Khai
View from a sandstone cliff across forest to the Mekong river and the hills of Laos

Visit Isaan with us

Our four loops run through these provinces, each with local guides.